Into the Blue

 Some of you may know this as a very cool album by Van Morrison, but for me, today, it symbolises a real pinnacle of the trip. Since hearing from Dutch Mike in the campsite about the ominous weather front approaching I spent the morning prevaricating over an extra long breakfast and more conversations with other travelers, notably Laura, a lovely Swiss woman who is picking grapes at a local vineyard and who suggested that it would be very easy for me to get work there for a couple of weeks. I could have been easily swayed, but in two weeks the weather would be even more unreliable so I felt I should keep my focus at least until I get over the border to Spain. I didn't leave the campsite until three in the afternoon, but I was rewarded with blazing sunshine, an excellent road, and the most beautiful countryside. I'm not going to make any comments, just judge for yourselves!


High street St Etienne de Baigorry



Medieval bridge on the way out of town.


This is the back of a shop selling regional specialities. If you zoom in to the balcony you'll see a lot of hanging sacks. These all contain ham being cured.



Wildfire damage at the side of the road. Can you imagine trying to fight a fire on slopes like these? It must have been extremely scary.


One breathtaking view after another. If only I was a better photographer!

So tonight I'm in a very villagey town called Aldudes and to be honest there aren't many dudes about. The season is over and pretty much the whole town is closed. I'm on my own in an Aire de camping provided by the municipality for the free use of hikers and cyclists. There's a hand written notice pinned to the stone boundary wall which says something like: "The municipality offer you also the opportunity to take showers at the back of the village hall between 6 and 8 pm at the price of 2 euros" So simple but so meaningful. Next to the foyer, or village hall there are also some very clean and convenient toilets. Right now there is nowhere else in the world I would rather be.

There is a bar open a little further down the road so I went down for a cup of hot chocolate. The patroness had two toddlers with her, and apart from that there was no one else. She said things were very calm, most people in the village go away for a break once their working season is over at the end of September, which explains why so many places appeared to be closed. I asked if many cyclists use the pass and I think she said there were plenty, mostly coming over from the Spanish side. She had a newspaper and showed me the storm warning for Wednesday and Thursday. Not just rain but high winds too. But tomorrow (Tuesday) looks relatively okay with just scattered showers, so I will attempt the pass (Col de Paradar) 400 m higher than where I am now and only 26 km to the first Spanish town of Eugi where there is a hostel and I hope to spend a couple of days while the storm blows over.

In the meantime I will have to deal with a gang of feral cats that seem intent on raiding my tent, presumably for food. I think tinned mackerel may have been a bad choice for supper.

Don't miss tomorrow's exciting episode!

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