This is one view of the town of Castillejar. It's like a huge wedding cake with at least five levels of caves, maybe even seven or eight in places, piled up on top of each other. You could say it's perched on a hill, but it's more like a monolith, Ayers Rock kind of thing, because it stands on its own with pretty much sheer sides, straight out of the ground. Probably it attained that form because it's at the confluence of two rivers which have over the centuries stripped away the slopes. Among the complex network of roads and pavements chimneys emerge at random through the ground. There's very little privacy in this town for if you are inclined to linger close by these chimneys, you will hear the conversations going on in the dwellings below! Historically there was little regulation of cave construction, and if somebody needed an extra room it was simply a case of digging back further into the hillside to create one. But following a number of collapses planning pe